Terrapins - How to Look After

Terrapins, the small cute reptiles, are considered as a soft and timid creature. In case you are thinking of buying one to keep as a pet, then a sound knowledge about it should be considered prior to your purchase. These include their varieties, habit and habitat, pattern of food intake, mating rituals, hibernating process, common diseases etc. In short, terrapin petting demands extensive research work.

Ready to buy your first terrapin? Don't be whimsical or never just try to imitate someone else. Terrapin petting is not as easy as it seems. Your love and affection is the key to their well being and long life (approximately 30 years) in captivity!

Buying the right kind:

* Buy from a good and well known pet store of your locality. Learn how to handle it. Seek a few tips on terrapin petting from them.
* Want to buy online? Go for it! Select the best website to buy and collect your terrapin safely. Beware of getting cheated.
* Buy a healthy hatchling from a reliable breeder.
* Consult a good veterinary doctor to learn more about your terrapin.
* Buy the right kind of terrapin and all other necessary accessories.
* Buy hardy or semi-hardy species. Semi aquatic terrapins are good pets.
* Map terrapin, Red eared sliders and yellow bellied terrapins can be good pets.
* Take utmost care for the tiny-weeny hatchlings. Initially they are small but can grow fast.
* Find a sun-lit place for the terrarium.
* Get a terrarium fitted with water filter, thermostatic heater, thermometer, UV light and basking area (the place on which they sit to dry up).
* Ideal size of the baby-terrarium is - 3′ x 1′x 1′ (For two).
* Water level should be moderate.
* 24º - 26º C temperature of water is ideal for hatchlings

You will need:-

1. A water filter, siphon and net to keep the water clean.
2. UV light, fluorescent lamp and a thermometer.
3. Logs, pebbles and a rocky, elevated basking area inside the tank.
4. Give balanced food; Combine meat, vegetables and nutritional supplements.

A few more tips to consider:

* Handle carefully. A fall can kill or injure it.
* Take care to stay away from Salmonella infection. A child below five years should not handle a terrapin.

Your love and care can only keep these endangered creatures happy and healthy.

For more information about terrapins please visit: Terrapins How To

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paul_Bryan

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Freshwater Turtles

Hi! Good Morning! I am Deirochelys reticularia, nick name - Chicken turtle, because of my long, striped, neck. I am a freshwater turtle and belong to a reputed family Emydidae. I inhabit the calm and quiet weedy freshwater ponds, swamps or marshes.

Look at the fine grooves and yellow network on the surface of my brown carapace (4 to 10 inches long). Whenever I get bored, I come out and enjoy moving on the land. I relish both non-vegetarian and vegetarian foods. Remember, never ever try to irritate me, else I will bite!

Let me introduce other family members:

Mr. Clemmys marmorata, (Pacific/Western Pond turtle)
Miss Emys orbicularis (European pond turtle/Swamp turtle)
Mr. Emydoidea blandingii (Blanding's turtle).
Mrs. Graptemys geographica (Common Map turtle)
Baby Graptemys pseudogeographica (False Map turtle)
Master Clemmys guttata (Spotted turtle)
Miss Pseudemys concinna (River Cooter)
Ma'm Trachemys scripta elegans (Red-eared Slider) look at the significant red stripe behind the eyes.
Mr.Chrysemys picta picta (Eastern Painted Turtle)
Mrs. Pseudemys rubriventris (Eastern Red-bellied Turtle)
Mr. Calemys insculpta (Wood Turtle)

They are basically carnivorous but sometimes nibble on plants and seeds for a change of palate. They all inhabit shallow lakes, weedy marshes, ponds etc.

Let's go over there; Kinosternidae family is having a great picnic on tadpoles, snails, worms and crayfish-

There are -Mr. Kinosternon subrubrum (Mud turtle and Eastern Mud Turtle) and Mrs. Kinosternon flavescents (Yellow Mud turtle) with yellow throat, smooth brown carapace and a big double hinged dull colored plastron.

Meet young and energetic Musk turtle, Common Musk Turtle and Loggerhead Musk Turtle. Though close kins, they are different species under the genus Sternotherus. They have short tail, grey, brown or dull colored oval-shaped shell, a single hinged plastron and white stripes on the two sides of the head.

But don't dare to disturb them, else they may emit a strong foul smell from the glands which can knock you out (...just between you and me, we call them "stinkpot" because of the odor...yuck)! They don't grow beyond 6 inches and have characteristic fleshy barbels on the chin.

There, basking on the sandbars, are the ace swimmers - Miss Apalone ferox and Apalone spinifera (Spiny- and Florida soft-shell turtles) of the Family Trionychidae. They are big (5-24 inches), carnivoresand have leathery shells.

Wow! There is Mr.Chelydra serpentina (Snapping Turtle) of Chelydridae family; largest of our kind (8-20 inches) with strong snapping jaws. How majestic!

Aren't we fascinating? Then why do you gobble us? Why eh...?

For more information about pet turtles visit: Freshwater Turtles.

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Hermans Tortoise - FAQ

Testudo Hermanni is the Latin name for this little tortoise. It is often better to go by the Latin name rather than the common name to get the best research on the species. The spelling is more usually Hermann with two n's. So this can cause confusion!

If you are thinking of buying one of these little pets to care for at home there are a few things you will need to consider. At first glance, caring for a Herman tortoise may appear to be straight forward as they are well known to thrive in captivity and they are one of the smaller varieties for you to choose from.

If you have decided the this is the species you want then the next few points will help you to plan your enclosure and what you should place in it in order for your pet to live a happy and illness free life. After all many of these creatures do live for a long time!

Top Five Herman tortoise tips

1. How big should your enclosure be? This depends on the size of your pet. This particular species will grow up to 10 inches in length. The males will average about 5 inches. The basic rule is that you should provide at least 3 square foot of space per inch of tortoise. This can be a considerable area to find spare in your home. At first however, you will be fine with a reasonably sized tortoise table or enclosure. But you must keep in mind how large your pet may grow.

2. What sort of environment should you provide for your Herman tortoise? It's natural habitat is Europe from France through southern Italy and Greece. They naturally live in Mediterranean forests and grasslands so you have to try to mimic this as far as is possible in your enclosure.

3. Make plenty of hiding places inside your enclosure so that your pet has time to hide away at times. If they are constantly on show they become stressed and this often leads to physical illness. The substrate (covering on the bottom of the enclosure) is also very important as some types are dangerous for the tortoises digestive tract.

4. Artificial lighting and heating. All chelonians are exothermic (cold blooded) and have to bask in sunshine and heat in order to function normally. Therefore you will have to provide a special reptile lamp that is placed above the enclosure. This is a critical element in the care of your pet. You will also need to provide appropriate photoperiods for your pet as they need to have a certain amount of light in their day or they will again become unwell.

5. Feeding your Herman? Their natural diet is a varied herbivorous one that should include fleshy vegetables and some soft fruits. There are some naturally growing plants that are toxic to your pet so you should do some research on exactly what you have to feed him for optimum health. This is especially true if you keep your pet in a more natural outside enclosure. It is also advisable to provide a vitamin and mineral supplement to help nutrition.

This is just a snap shot of what you need to consider if you are thinking of getting a Herman tortoise to care for but they do make fantastic pets and will be your companion for many years to come!

Ellie Bear is a tortoise enthusiast and she owns and maintains http://www.tortoisetips.com where you can find more in depth information on keeping and caring for Herman Tortoise

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Spur Tortoise - FAQ

More commonly known as the Sulcata (Geochelone Sulcata). This is a larger species that does require quite a large enclosure, preferably outside. If you live in a suitable climate this is one of the most interesting active and friendly species but their habitat in the wild is quickly disappearing so breeders over the last 20 years have really done a great job in preserving this species.

The spur tortoise often reaches 200 pounds and 30 inches in length! Obviously this is a large specimen and will require lots of food and space. Therefore keeping them in a small indoor enclosure would not be the best for optimum health and well being of the pet! Their shell (carapace ) is tan in color and has a low curved shape unlike that of the Leopard tortoise. The back legs have spurs or tubercles (which gives it it's common name).

Some times there is confusion over the different types but if you try to take notice of the Latin name rather than just the common name you will be able to more easily differentiate between all the various species. This is true of the 'spur' as the North African Tortoise (Testudo Graeca) is also called the spur-thighed!

The African from the North African region has a varied habitat from desert to grasslands and dry savannas. If you decide to keep and care for the spur tortoise you will have to mimic this for the best outcome for your pet. In a captive environment this adaptable creature will need a large area in which to live happily. Provided the climate is suitable an adult will live very happily in a large outside enclosure. This species does enjoy digging however, so be sure to secure the enclosure with a solid or escape proof base and also a strong fence or wall.. this will have to be reasonably high too as they like to climb! It would surprise you how high they can actually climb if they are determined to get through!

Their diet is a typical varied herbivorous one that should include fresh and if possible living vegetation. Make sure you research the type of live vegetation they can eat as some is toxic to the tortoise. They like to graze all day long and this in turn will produce large amounts of waste! So be prepared to clean up its enclosure regularly to avoid illness. A bale of alfalfa hay is a good source of fibre and it is also advisable to give your tortoise a vitamin and mineral supplement.

If you are thinking of caring for one of these spur tortoises you will have to weigh up all these issues as they require a lot of your time and energy. Their outside enclosure will require artificial heating and lighting which will incur significant costs to your household expenses. It is a serious commitment to decide to live with one of these incredible creatures but if you have the right planning and resources available to you they make an excellent and fascinating pet for many years to come.

Is a tortoise enthusiast and has been keeping tortoises for many years. If you are interested to find out more about these amazing creatures go to http://www.tortoisetips.com including the Spur Tortoise

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ellie_Bear

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Horsfield Tortoise - Pets For Life!

If you choose a tortoise of any species to keep and care for, be prepared to care for it for many year's to come. Although many of the smaller types have not had their life expectancy studied specifically, it is know that many species will live for up to 75-100 years. If you choose one for a pet you must think of who and how it will be cared for when you are no longer here.

The Horsfield or Russian tortoise is one of the smaller varieties you could care for. It is friendly and outgoing and will often recognise its owner coming to greet them especially if it is time to eat! This particular species does thrive in an outside enclosure but beware, they do like to dig and can if left unattended dig under and out of their enclosure to the world beyond! These Geochelone Horsfieldi (Latin name) can be difficult to keep if you do not live in the correct type of environment. Their natural environment is arid to semi-arid grasslands through to rocky deserts and hillsides. They make excellent pets if their needs are provided for and will live for decades.

Many tortoise pets have been handed down from parent to child to grandchild and this is something you may wish to arrange, specifically making provision for your pet in your will. This is not usually something to think about if you have a cat or a dog but part of the unique appeal of reptiles and specifically tortoises is their longevity. You will grow old together.

You can look forward to many years together if you make sure you provide the best and most appropriate environment for your specific species. Unfortunately many captive bred chelonians die early as their owners are unaware of the needs of their pets. Education is fundamental to rearing and caring for your tortoise correctly. There are many authoritative sites to refer to if you are at all worried about your pet. Always, seek advice from your vet if you are concerned for its welfare.

Ellie Bear is a tortoise enthusiast and she owns and maintains http://www.tortoisetips.com where you can find more detailed information on keeping and caring for your tortoise pets

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ellie_Bear

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Tortoise Housing By Ellie Bear

The type of enclosure you decide to build for your pet will be determined by the specific species you choose. Many of the smaller varieties such as the Hermann or the Russian tortoise will live happily for years in a reasonably sized indoor enclosure. However if you decide to care for one of the larger varieties you may have to consider a larger outside enclosure.

Tortoise housing can be an expensive affair but if you choose a smaller species then a specially built table would be more than adequate in a suitable spot in your home. Try not to choose a glass vivarium to house your pet as these are not really the most suitable environment. Tortoises like to have areas in which to hide away and burrow. They can become stressed if they do not feel secure and have been known to bash themselves against the sides of a glass vivarium trying to reach the world beyond! If you do want to have a show piece glass enclosure make sure you have a more suitable enclosure for your pet to live in for most of the time and only place it in the glass vivarium for short periods.

You will also have to have an appropriate reptile light and heating system so that your tortoise can have basking areas and the right amount of controlled times of artificial daylight. This is especially important if your pet is going to live inside for all of its life. Photoperiods are vital for the health of a chelonian and if you do not balance the amount of daylight and darkness correctly this too can cause physical illness and stress to your pet.

Tortoise housing need not be a complicated or expensive business but you do have to plan it properly in order to provide the best environment for your pet to live in for years to come. The priority is to make whatever home you provide the best for the particular needs of the species you choose.

Ellie Bear is a tortoise enthusiast and she owns and maintains http://www.tortoisetips.com where you can find out much more about Tortoise Housing

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ellie_Bear

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General Facts About Leopard Geckos

Leopard Geckos make wonderful pets for just about anyone. But owning a Leopard gecko is just like owning any other pet, the care and responsibility is still the same. Leopard Geckos are nocturnal creatures and are most active at night. Leopard Geckos are terrestrial meaning they live on the ground. Housing temperatures should be between 82 and 88 degrees all day and night.

A male should never be housed in the same cage as another male because they will fight and possibly kill each other. A male can be housed with several females without any problems. Leopard Geckos should not share housing with any other reptile.

A ten gallon tank is good for a single Leopard Gecko but a 20 gallon or larger should be used for a male and several females. The tank should have a screen lid on it to avoid escapes. They need to have a warm hiding spot and a cold humid hiding spot because they need a place to hide and sleep during the day.

It is very important to use the right type of substrate for the bottom of the cage. Some substrate like sand are unsafe for young and adult Leopard Geckos because they will ingest it and it can cause blockage of the digestive tract and is often fatal. The best thing to use is paper towels or plain newspaper.

A diet of meal worms and crickets do well. Feeder insects are good for variety and balanced diet, silkworms, mealworms, butterworms are all good choices. If you use crickets make sure that the legs on one side are pulled off so they can't move around to well because they can bite the Leopard Gecko while they are sleeping and can cause infection.

Use a shallow water bowl and fill as needed and clean out weekly.

One very important fact is a well taken care of leopard gecko can live up to 22 years. Make absolutely sure you can handle the pet for that amount of time.

For someone wanting to get an easy to care for pet, a Leopard Gecko, may be just the answer. Here are some additional resources that you may want to look at if you are considering a Leopard Gecko as a Pet.

10 secrets to Save Your Leopard Gecko

You'll find lots of information you never find on the Internet about taking care of your gecko. Things the pet shop owners and vets never tell you about.

http://www.leopardgeckosonline.info

7 Secrets to Save Your Geckos Life! "Amazing! Discover Life Saving Leopard Gecko Secrets You Can't Find Anywhere Else On The Internet, Including Secrets Which Can Double Your Leopard Gecko's Life!"

http://www.leopardgeckossite.info

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