Pets Reptiles Amphibians: 26 Jun 2009

Terrapins - How to Look After

Terrapins, the small cute reptiles, are considered as a soft and timid creature. In case you are thinking of buying one to keep as a pet, then a sound knowledge about it should be considered prior to your purchase. These include their varieties, habit and habitat, pattern of food intake, mating rituals, hibernating process, common diseases etc. In short, terrapin petting demands extensive research work.

Ready to buy your first terrapin? Don't be whimsical or never just try to imitate someone else. Terrapin petting is not as easy as it seems. Your love and affection is the key to their well being and long life (approximately 30 years) in captivity!

Buying the right kind:

* Buy from a good and well known pet store of your locality. Learn how to handle it. Seek a few tips on terrapin petting from them.
* Want to buy online? Go for it! Select the best website to buy and collect your terrapin safely. Beware of getting cheated.
* Buy a healthy hatchling from a reliable breeder.
* Consult a good veterinary doctor to learn more about your terrapin.
* Buy the right kind of terrapin and all other necessary accessories.
* Buy hardy or semi-hardy species. Semi aquatic terrapins are good pets.
* Map terrapin, Red eared sliders and yellow bellied terrapins can be good pets.
* Take utmost care for the tiny-weeny hatchlings. Initially they are small but can grow fast.
* Find a sun-lit place for the terrarium.
* Get a terrarium fitted with water filter, thermostatic heater, thermometer, UV light and basking area (the place on which they sit to dry up).
* Ideal size of the baby-terrarium is - 3′ x 1′x 1′ (For two).
* Water level should be moderate.
* 24º - 26º C temperature of water is ideal for hatchlings

You will need:-

1. A water filter, siphon and net to keep the water clean.
2. UV light, fluorescent lamp and a thermometer.
3. Logs, pebbles and a rocky, elevated basking area inside the tank.
4. Give balanced food; Combine meat, vegetables and nutritional supplements.

A few more tips to consider:

* Handle carefully. A fall can kill or injure it.
* Take care to stay away from Salmonella infection. A child below five years should not handle a terrapin.

Your love and care can only keep these endangered creatures happy and healthy.

For more information about terrapins please visit: Terrapins How To

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Freshwater Turtles

Hi! Good Morning! I am Deirochelys reticularia, nick name - Chicken turtle, because of my long, striped, neck. I am a freshwater turtle and belong to a reputed family Emydidae. I inhabit the calm and quiet weedy freshwater ponds, swamps or marshes.

Look at the fine grooves and yellow network on the surface of my brown carapace (4 to 10 inches long). Whenever I get bored, I come out and enjoy moving on the land. I relish both non-vegetarian and vegetarian foods. Remember, never ever try to irritate me, else I will bite!

Let me introduce other family members:

Mr. Clemmys marmorata, (Pacific/Western Pond turtle)
Miss Emys orbicularis (European pond turtle/Swamp turtle)
Mr. Emydoidea blandingii (Blanding's turtle).
Mrs. Graptemys geographica (Common Map turtle)
Baby Graptemys pseudogeographica (False Map turtle)
Master Clemmys guttata (Spotted turtle)
Miss Pseudemys concinna (River Cooter)
Ma'm Trachemys scripta elegans (Red-eared Slider) look at the significant red stripe behind the eyes.
Mr.Chrysemys picta picta (Eastern Painted Turtle)
Mrs. Pseudemys rubriventris (Eastern Red-bellied Turtle)
Mr. Calemys insculpta (Wood Turtle)

They are basically carnivorous but sometimes nibble on plants and seeds for a change of palate. They all inhabit shallow lakes, weedy marshes, ponds etc.

Let's go over there; Kinosternidae family is having a great picnic on tadpoles, snails, worms and crayfish-

There are -Mr. Kinosternon subrubrum (Mud turtle and Eastern Mud Turtle) and Mrs. Kinosternon flavescents (Yellow Mud turtle) with yellow throat, smooth brown carapace and a big double hinged dull colored plastron.

Meet young and energetic Musk turtle, Common Musk Turtle and Loggerhead Musk Turtle. Though close kins, they are different species under the genus Sternotherus. They have short tail, grey, brown or dull colored oval-shaped shell, a single hinged plastron and white stripes on the two sides of the head.

But don't dare to disturb them, else they may emit a strong foul smell from the glands which can knock you out (...just between you and me, we call them "stinkpot" because of the odor...yuck)! They don't grow beyond 6 inches and have characteristic fleshy barbels on the chin.

There, basking on the sandbars, are the ace swimmers - Miss Apalone ferox and Apalone spinifera (Spiny- and Florida soft-shell turtles) of the Family Trionychidae. They are big (5-24 inches), carnivoresand have leathery shells.

Wow! There is Mr.Chelydra serpentina (Snapping Turtle) of Chelydridae family; largest of our kind (8-20 inches) with strong snapping jaws. How majestic!

Aren't we fascinating? Then why do you gobble us? Why eh...?

For more information about pet turtles visit: Freshwater Turtles.

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Hermans Tortoise - FAQ

Testudo Hermanni is the Latin name for this little tortoise. It is often better to go by the Latin name rather than the common name to get the best research on the species. The spelling is more usually Hermann with two n's. So this can cause confusion!

If you are thinking of buying one of these little pets to care for at home there are a few things you will need to consider. At first glance, caring for a Herman tortoise may appear to be straight forward as they are well known to thrive in captivity and they are one of the smaller varieties for you to choose from.

If you have decided the this is the species you want then the next few points will help you to plan your enclosure and what you should place in it in order for your pet to live a happy and illness free life. After all many of these creatures do live for a long time!

Top Five Herman tortoise tips

1. How big should your enclosure be? This depends on the size of your pet. This particular species will grow up to 10 inches in length. The males will average about 5 inches. The basic rule is that you should provide at least 3 square foot of space per inch of tortoise. This can be a considerable area to find spare in your home. At first however, you will be fine with a reasonably sized tortoise table or enclosure. But you must keep in mind how large your pet may grow.

2. What sort of environment should you provide for your Herman tortoise? It's natural habitat is Europe from France through southern Italy and Greece. They naturally live in Mediterranean forests and grasslands so you have to try to mimic this as far as is possible in your enclosure.

3. Make plenty of hiding places inside your enclosure so that your pet has time to hide away at times. If they are constantly on show they become stressed and this often leads to physical illness. The substrate (covering on the bottom of the enclosure) is also very important as some types are dangerous for the tortoises digestive tract.

4. Artificial lighting and heating. All chelonians are exothermic (cold blooded) and have to bask in sunshine and heat in order to function normally. Therefore you will have to provide a special reptile lamp that is placed above the enclosure. This is a critical element in the care of your pet. You will also need to provide appropriate photoperiods for your pet as they need to have a certain amount of light in their day or they will again become unwell.

5. Feeding your Herman? Their natural diet is a varied herbivorous one that should include fleshy vegetables and some soft fruits. There are some naturally growing plants that are toxic to your pet so you should do some research on exactly what you have to feed him for optimum health. This is especially true if you keep your pet in a more natural outside enclosure. It is also advisable to provide a vitamin and mineral supplement to help nutrition.

This is just a snap shot of what you need to consider if you are thinking of getting a Herman tortoise to care for but they do make fantastic pets and will be your companion for many years to come!

Ellie Bear is a tortoise enthusiast and she owns and maintains http://www.tortoisetips.com where you can find more in depth information on keeping and caring for Herman Tortoise

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Spur Tortoise - FAQ

More commonly known as the Sulcata (Geochelone Sulcata). This is a larger species that does require quite a large enclosure, preferably outside. If you live in a suitable climate this is one of the most interesting active and friendly species but their habitat in the wild is quickly disappearing so breeders over the last 20 years have really done a great job in preserving this species.

The spur tortoise often reaches 200 pounds and 30 inches in length! Obviously this is a large specimen and will require lots of food and space. Therefore keeping them in a small indoor enclosure would not be the best for optimum health and well being of the pet! Their shell (carapace ) is tan in color and has a low curved shape unlike that of the Leopard tortoise. The back legs have spurs or tubercles (which gives it it's common name).

Some times there is confusion over the different types but if you try to take notice of the Latin name rather than just the common name you will be able to more easily differentiate between all the various species. This is true of the 'spur' as the North African Tortoise (Testudo Graeca) is also called the spur-thighed!

The African from the North African region has a varied habitat from desert to grasslands and dry savannas. If you decide to keep and care for the spur tortoise you will have to mimic this for the best outcome for your pet. In a captive environment this adaptable creature will need a large area in which to live happily. Provided the climate is suitable an adult will live very happily in a large outside enclosure. This species does enjoy digging however, so be sure to secure the enclosure with a solid or escape proof base and also a strong fence or wall.. this will have to be reasonably high too as they like to climb! It would surprise you how high they can actually climb if they are determined to get through!

Their diet is a typical varied herbivorous one that should include fresh and if possible living vegetation. Make sure you research the type of live vegetation they can eat as some is toxic to the tortoise. They like to graze all day long and this in turn will produce large amounts of waste! So be prepared to clean up its enclosure regularly to avoid illness. A bale of alfalfa hay is a good source of fibre and it is also advisable to give your tortoise a vitamin and mineral supplement.

If you are thinking of caring for one of these spur tortoises you will have to weigh up all these issues as they require a lot of your time and energy. Their outside enclosure will require artificial heating and lighting which will incur significant costs to your household expenses. It is a serious commitment to decide to live with one of these incredible creatures but if you have the right planning and resources available to you they make an excellent and fascinating pet for many years to come.

Is a tortoise enthusiast and has been keeping tortoises for many years. If you are interested to find out more about these amazing creatures go to http://www.tortoisetips.com including the Spur Tortoise

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Horsfield Tortoise - Pets For Life!

If you choose a tortoise of any species to keep and care for, be prepared to care for it for many year's to come. Although many of the smaller types have not had their life expectancy studied specifically, it is know that many species will live for up to 75-100 years. If you choose one for a pet you must think of who and how it will be cared for when you are no longer here.

The Horsfield or Russian tortoise is one of the smaller varieties you could care for. It is friendly and outgoing and will often recognise its owner coming to greet them especially if it is time to eat! This particular species does thrive in an outside enclosure but beware, they do like to dig and can if left unattended dig under and out of their enclosure to the world beyond! These Geochelone Horsfieldi (Latin name) can be difficult to keep if you do not live in the correct type of environment. Their natural environment is arid to semi-arid grasslands through to rocky deserts and hillsides. They make excellent pets if their needs are provided for and will live for decades.

Many tortoise pets have been handed down from parent to child to grandchild and this is something you may wish to arrange, specifically making provision for your pet in your will. This is not usually something to think about if you have a cat or a dog but part of the unique appeal of reptiles and specifically tortoises is their longevity. You will grow old together.

You can look forward to many years together if you make sure you provide the best and most appropriate environment for your specific species. Unfortunately many captive bred chelonians die early as their owners are unaware of the needs of their pets. Education is fundamental to rearing and caring for your tortoise correctly. There are many authoritative sites to refer to if you are at all worried about your pet. Always, seek advice from your vet if you are concerned for its welfare.

Ellie Bear is a tortoise enthusiast and she owns and maintains http://www.tortoisetips.com where you can find more detailed information on keeping and caring for your tortoise pets

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ellie_Bear

Tortoise Housing By Ellie Bear

The type of enclosure you decide to build for your pet will be determined by the specific species you choose. Many of the smaller varieties such as the Hermann or the Russian tortoise will live happily for years in a reasonably sized indoor enclosure. However if you decide to care for one of the larger varieties you may have to consider a larger outside enclosure.

Tortoise housing can be an expensive affair but if you choose a smaller species then a specially built table would be more than adequate in a suitable spot in your home. Try not to choose a glass vivarium to house your pet as these are not really the most suitable environment. Tortoises like to have areas in which to hide away and burrow. They can become stressed if they do not feel secure and have been known to bash themselves against the sides of a glass vivarium trying to reach the world beyond! If you do want to have a show piece glass enclosure make sure you have a more suitable enclosure for your pet to live in for most of the time and only place it in the glass vivarium for short periods.

You will also have to have an appropriate reptile light and heating system so that your tortoise can have basking areas and the right amount of controlled times of artificial daylight. This is especially important if your pet is going to live inside for all of its life. Photoperiods are vital for the health of a chelonian and if you do not balance the amount of daylight and darkness correctly this too can cause physical illness and stress to your pet.

Tortoise housing need not be a complicated or expensive business but you do have to plan it properly in order to provide the best environment for your pet to live in for years to come. The priority is to make whatever home you provide the best for the particular needs of the species you choose.

Ellie Bear is a tortoise enthusiast and she owns and maintains http://www.tortoisetips.com where you can find out much more about Tortoise Housing

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ellie_Bear

General Facts About Leopard Geckos

Leopard Geckos make wonderful pets for just about anyone. But owning a Leopard gecko is just like owning any other pet, the care and responsibility is still the same. Leopard Geckos are nocturnal creatures and are most active at night. Leopard Geckos are terrestrial meaning they live on the ground. Housing temperatures should be between 82 and 88 degrees all day and night.

A male should never be housed in the same cage as another male because they will fight and possibly kill each other. A male can be housed with several females without any problems. Leopard Geckos should not share housing with any other reptile.

A ten gallon tank is good for a single Leopard Gecko but a 20 gallon or larger should be used for a male and several females. The tank should have a screen lid on it to avoid escapes. They need to have a warm hiding spot and a cold humid hiding spot because they need a place to hide and sleep during the day.

It is very important to use the right type of substrate for the bottom of the cage. Some substrate like sand are unsafe for young and adult Leopard Geckos because they will ingest it and it can cause blockage of the digestive tract and is often fatal. The best thing to use is paper towels or plain newspaper.

A diet of meal worms and crickets do well. Feeder insects are good for variety and balanced diet, silkworms, mealworms, butterworms are all good choices. If you use crickets make sure that the legs on one side are pulled off so they can't move around to well because they can bite the Leopard Gecko while they are sleeping and can cause infection.

Use a shallow water bowl and fill as needed and clean out weekly.

One very important fact is a well taken care of leopard gecko can live up to 22 years. Make absolutely sure you can handle the pet for that amount of time.

For someone wanting to get an easy to care for pet, a Leopard Gecko, may be just the answer. Here are some additional resources that you may want to look at if you are considering a Leopard Gecko as a Pet.

10 secrets to Save Your Leopard Gecko

You'll find lots of information you never find on the Internet about taking care of your gecko. Things the pet shop owners and vets never tell you about.

http://www.leopardgeckosonline.info

7 Secrets to Save Your Geckos Life! "Amazing! Discover Life Saving Leopard Gecko Secrets You Can't Find Anywhere Else On The Internet, Including Secrets Which Can Double Your Leopard Gecko's Life!"

http://www.leopardgeckossite.info

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Tortoise Table For a Small Tortoise

If you are thinking of getting a smaller variety of tortoise you will be able to keep it happily in a well equipped tortoise table. These are relatively easy to make if you have a little D.I.Y. knowledge and some wood, a hammer and a screwdriver.

The basic design includes somewhere for your tortoise to bask in heat and an artificial light source. You will also have to think about what sort of substrate would be best used in the table. There are a variety of commercially available products that work very well in this type of environment and this design of enclosure will ensure it is easy to maintain and keep clean.

Here are a few basic instructions on how to build a 3'x8' Tortoise table (ideal for a Horsfield/Russian species)

This table has a 3'x8' floor and the walls are 18" high before instillation. The wall height after assembly is 14" unless you attach wheels which will obviously give it more height.

Use 1/2" thick plywood and cut:

1 - 3'x8' (for the floor of the table)
2 - 1'-6"x8' (for the side walls)
2 - 1'-6"x3'-1" (for the end walls)

Using 2x4 wood cut:

4 - 8' long (for the frame)
8 - 2'-9" long (for the frame)
4 - 1'-2" long (corner batons such as 2x2s)
4 - the legs are 18" tall.

If you attach wheels, for easy movement when cleaning it makes a finished leg length of 21").

Using the screws, build the 2 frames with the 8' long pieces overlapping the 2'-9" long pieces. You want the frames to be 3'x8' outside measurement.

Next, screw down the 3'x8' floor plywood to one of the frames. Make sure you square the frame to the plywood. The plywood should be flush to the outside of the frame all the way around.

Turn the assembled frame over and attach the legs to the inside of the frame with floor and the second frame assembly. The outside of both frame assemblies should wrap around the outside of the legs.

If you want your tortoise table to have wheels this is a good time to attach them.

Turn it back over so it is standing on the legs. Attach the plywood walls to the outside of the 2x4 frame. Make sure the bottom edge of the walls is flush to the bottom of the 2x4 frame all the way around. Also make sure the 8' long side walls are flush to the frame at each end. This will give you a nice, tight corner. The 3'-1" end walls will overlap the 8' side walls.

Finally use the nails and batons to secure the corners of the walls.

Now all you have to do is equip it with a suitable reptile heating lamp and light source plus the substrate. You will also need to plan what hiding places and other rocks you can place inside the tortoise table for your pet.

Ellie Bear is a tortoise enthusiast and she owns and maintains http://www.tortoisetips.com a useful resource for more information on how to construct a Tortoise Table

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ellie_Bear

Caring For Pet Amphibians

Amphibians can make unique and wonderful pets, but caring for pet amphibians is often more difficult than many people realize. In nature, amphibians require a delicate environmental balance, and if that environment becomes disrupted, they can become ill and die. It is the same for amphibians that are kept as pets. Keeping their environment stable is a critical task every amphibian pet owner must take seriously.

Amphibians are broken down into three categories; salamanders, frogs and the lesser known caecilians, which are worm like creatures. The most popular pet amphibians are salamanders and frogs, so we will focus on caring for pet amphibians in these categories. In each grouping of these popular pet amphibians you will find more options for a pet available to you than you may believe, as there are over 400 species of frog and 80 species of salamander that can be found in the world.

Your Pet Amphibians Habitat

When keeping amphibians as pets, you must first ensure that you have the proper amphibian habitat set up for your pet before you bring them home. In fact, the most important part of caring for pet amphibians is providing the proper dwelling for them, so you will need to thoroughly research the specific salamander or frog you are getting and set up the appropriate amphibian habitat.

Once the amphibian habitat is set up, you will need to make sure that you are diligent in it's care, and clean the cage the proper way. Remember, just one imbalance in the cage can cause your amphibian to become ill, and it could even prove to be fatal. You must make sure that you have all of the materials necessary to provide your pet amphibians with an environment that is comparable to their natural habitat, so that they have everything they need to survive.

Feeding Amphibians

Feeding amphibians is of course, also essential to their well being. Each type of amphibian requires a different type of food, so when determining which type of pet amphibian to get you first need to make sure you are going to be able to find and purchase the type of food that they need.

Generally, amphibians will require a number of different food sources in order for them to get the various nutrients that they need. Part of caring for pet amphibians is researching the pet thoroughly enough so that you know what these food sources are and can make them readily available to your pet.

Keeping amphibians as pets isn't always easy, but it can be very fun and rewarding. Watching these unique animals grow and thrive is very exciting, and is a great alternative to common pets such as cats or dogs. Popular pet amphibians also make a great pet choice for those with allergies that are limited in the types of pets they can have. As long as you properly research the care and make sure you are providing your pet amphibian with everything that it needs, you should have no problem with your unique pet and can enjoy each others company for quite some time.

Global Pet Village is a worldwide family friendly community for pets and those who care about pets. Our goal is to provide an environment where pet owners can come together and exchange information, pictures, videos, diaries, common interests and useful ideas about their pets.

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What Do Tortoises Eat?

In order for your tortoise to remain healthy good nutrition is paramount. This will ensure it has a strong immune system and will have normal growth, plus their shell will not grow to be deformed. There are a number of factors to consider that will contribute to your pet's nutritional needs.

Most are herbivores and will require a variety of vegetables and soft fruits plus minerals and vitamins. In order to provide the optimum nutritional value for your particular species of tortoise you should do some research into the natural habitat in which it would live in the wild. This will give you an idea of the type and variety of foods you should provide. For example, a small Pancake tortoise is from East Africa and would naturally eat grasses and dark green vegetables plus some fruits too. Whereas a Red Foot is from Southwest America and would naturally eat fruits such as mangoes, melons, grapes and other sweet fruits. It will also eat flowers such as rose blossoms, hibiscus and nasturtiums.

When you are researching what tortoises eat you also have to take into account the age of your pet. Nutritional needs vary with age and the rapidly growing hatchlings will need more food or higher protein rich foodstuffs, whereas the older specimens would not need such high protein levels.

The overall physical health of your pet will also determine what it will eat. If your pet is ill or injured it will require a different type of food. Sometimes an iceberg lettuce will help to provide a sick tortoise with extra hydration as it does not actually have much nutritional value in and of itself but it is useful when caring for a sick chelonian.

If you are wondering what do tortoises eat, you just need to think natural foodstuffs, fresh water and added vitamins and minerals (in safe and measured quantities). If you also provide a healthy enclosure for your pet you will ensure you are providing the best care for your pet tortoise.

Ellie Bear is a tortoise enthusiast and she owns and maintains http://www.tortoisetips.com where you can learn more about what tortoises eat?

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Terrapins Shop

Are you suffering from depression? You say you have tried everything, but nothing worked? Well, tell me, did you try petting? No?

BINGO! Now I think I know a miraculous remedy for you! It has a great healing power and I am sure you will be benefited like some of my friends who were suffering from a multitude of stresses due to work pressure, family feuds, diseases, loss of near and dears etc, etc.

So you want to learn more about it? Well, have a cute and cool pet. For that I would suggest an aquatic creature called 'Terrapin'! OH MY GOSH!

You don't know what terrapin is? Then let us go to a terrapin shop and ask the owner to explain everything! Have patience my friend.! You may contact a knowledgeable Terrapin-Breeder and dealer too.

Here you are..., inside the famous pet shop of your city. The owner seems well-informed. Go and ask him everything about the terrapin...! It is important because terrapins are different from other pets.

The terrapin shop owner says:

Before buying your terrapin, you will need a water tank (Terrarium) fitted with artificial UV lamp, a thermostatic heater, an elevated platform for basking, a filtering pump and a siphon.

Ask the shop owner or the breeder about the problems you may have to face. With a good knowledge you will be able to handle it more confidently.

Terrapins (chelonians) are cold blooded reptiles. Amphibious in nature, they are both aquatic and terrestrial. They are protected by a hard shell within which they can take shelter to deceive their enemy! Yes you are right, they are known as 'turtles' or 'Sliders' in United States.

You will be surprised to know that they are one of the oldest living creatures on the earth who walked along the dinosaurs, much before the first human was born.

Feed them balanced food to provide necessary nutrients. Mineral and vitamin supplements can also be given.

Clean the tank regularly.

See a good vet doctor as soon as you find your terrapin sick.

It lives long, needs your care and love, swims playfully in front of your eyes in the terrarium and takes all worries out of you. Just relax and feel free of all stresses.

So you can relax over a cup of steaming coffee and de-stress yourself by just watching your playful terrapin!

Can there be anything better than this?

To find out more about terrapin care please visit: Terrapins Shop

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paul_Bryan

Why Frozen Mice Are Better Than Live For Your Snake

Feeding your snake frozen mice is a better option for your pet than using live food. There are several major advantages to using pre-killed feeders as opposed to live. They are safer, easier to buy in bulk, and you can store several months of meals easily.

Using live rodents can be a risky proposition for a snake owner. Like any animal, they would prefer not to be made another animals dinner. The mice will fight back if it has an option. It can claw, bite, and scratch. This can cause unnecessary injury for your pet. If your snake doesn't get a clean kill and subdue the feeder right away, this can be a distinct possibility. This is not a problem with frozen mice for obvious reasons.

A worse possibility is if you have a larger snake like a red tail boa that dines on larger food like rats. They are more aggressive than your common mouse. It has been told that rats left alone with a disinterest snake will actually try and feed off it instead. It may start eating its way all the way to the back bone if it gets the chance. This is a good reason to remove your prey from the tank if your snake is not interested in eating and try again later.

Buying in bulk is another great benefit to using frozen mice. When you shop at your local brick and mortar pet store, the supply you are able to get is a lot smaller and may only last for a week or two before you have to go back. Also, the prices tend to be higher than when you buy in bulk. Bulk pricing is usually quite attractive when you buy in large quantities, like fifty at a time. You may also be able to get discounted or free shipping to really increase your savings.

When buying in large quantities you can store several months' worth of meals and avoid having to run out to the store every couple of weeks. The frozen pinkie mice are usually vacuum packaged and flash frozen. This makes it quite convenient and easy to store in your freezer.

You can see that there are many advantages of using frozen or live mice when you feed your snake. It is the best way to keep your pet safe while at the same time getting great prices and avoiding trips back and forth to the pet store.

Thomas Downs is an author and publisher of a blog about Snake Care and Feeding. If you need more information on Frozen Mice Suppliers and where to buy frozen pinkie mice online, stop by snakefoodking.

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Tortoise Hibernation - FAQ

If your type of tortoise is prone to hibernation there are a few factors you will need to consider. Not all species will hibernate, those likely to do this are those from North America, Europe and some Asian Countries. Species from sub-tropical and tropical areas of the globe do not hibernate, although there can be exceptions to this. Research your particular type and this will give you a good idea if yours is likely to need to hibernate. There has been research that suggests if a tortoise is prevented from hibernating it will become stressed and this can lead to illness and distress for the pet.

How do you tell if your pet is ready to hibernate?

If your tortoise slows down, reduces its intake of food and starts to hide more frequently you know to start to prepare for hibernation. Once the weather starts to cool and the days get shorter the natural internal clock of your pet will kick in and there a some important steps for you as the carer to undertake in order that it survives its winter sleep.

Do not let your tortoise hibernate if it has been ill recently as it may still have a disease or infection that could kill it whilst it is in hibernation. If your pet is a hatchling of less that one or two years old it is also not a good idea to allow it to do this. You can prevent your baby tortoise from hibernating by careful control of its environment. It is a combination of external environmental factors as well as its internal clock that determines if and when it will go to sleep for a few months.

How to care for a tortoise in hibernation?

If the signs are clear that your pet is preparing to hibernate, stop feeding it about two weeks before it is put away for the winter. Ensure you do continue to offer it water daily. If there is any food residue left in the gut it could rot whilst it is asleep. Bath it in lukewarm water. You can also start to reduce the photoperiods so that there is less daylight hours and longer nights. This will also slow it down ready to go to sleep.

What should you place your tortoise in to hibernate?

Prepare a small box with some bedding such as fine potting soil or shredded bark. This

needs to be deep enough for it to bury itself in it. Place the box in a

cool area of your home where the temperature is cool and does not fluctuate

vastly. It needs to be above freezing but lower that 60 degrees. Check on it regularly to see all is well but try not to disturb it too much. (you can put your tortoise into a refrigerator for hibernation - ensure you check the details and do some research before following this method)

If your pet lives in an outside enclosure make sure you know where it has chosen to bury itself for hibernating. If the ambient temperature has not reduced sufficiently you may have to dig it up and treat it as if it lived in an inside enclosure. This is very important, if it wakes up during the winter and does not have food to eat and water to drink it will starve. If it does wake early you will have to keep it in a suitable enclosure with adequate heat and light and also of course continue to feed it.

Care of a tortoise waking from hibernation.

Once awake soak in clean lukewarm water and add some drops of reptile vitamin liquid into the bath. Let it soak for an hour or so every day for three or four days and provide clean drinking water. When it has re-hydrated offer it some food such as some red or yellow flowers as this will spark its appetite. Also add some vitamin/mineral supplement to its diet too. Check for any symptoms of illness or parasites. Check, eyes, nose, bottom, shell etc to see all appears well. If you are at all unsure take it to your vet.

Once your tortoise has fully woken, re-hydrated, eaten and started moving around it may be ready to breed. This is the most likely time it may try to escape so be sure you have made its enclosure secure.

Ellie Bear is a tortoise enthusiast and she owns and maintains http://www.tortoisetips.com where you can find much more detailed information on all aspects of tortoise care and tortoise hibernation

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ellie_Bear

Bearded Dragon Care and Feeding

Bearded Dragon Care is easy with a little knowledge and goes a long way towards ensuring your pet remains healthy.Bearded Dragons are very docile lizards that get their name from the spiny scaled space that covers their throat. The male dragons will "puff" this area up as a sign of dominance and defense. Bearded Dragons are a fantastic choice for first time reptile owners, especially for families with young kids that are searching for a reptilian family member. Beardies are medium sized reptiles growing 18-24 inches in length. They are omnivorous creatures, which means they naturally eat plants and insects. In captivity they often do better on a vegetarian diet.

Their diet should consist mainly of calcium coated crickets, superworms, other insects, earthworms, pinky mice, dark leafy greens such as romaine, collard greens, kale, escarole, and red-leaf lettuce, and fruits & veggies such as strawberries and beans. Any food items presented to your Bearded Dragons should be no bigger than the space between their eyes.

Bearded Dragons are native to central Australia and are basically desert-dwelling lizards. Their colour varies from a dull brown or gray to straw/yellow to fiery orange-red. Bearded dragons are a very popular pet, They are extremely adaptable to different habitats, and may be found in woodland, scrubland, and grasslands.

Bearded dragons are superb pets for adults or kids, and are often used in schools as class pets. A Bearded dragon takes up less space than a dog or cat and is much cleaner. Bearded dragons are not prone to bad health but they can get worms or mites. If your animal is bleeding from a wound or internally (bloody vomit, or blood in the faeces), is paralysed, has abnormal swellings on any part of its body, it may have a broken bone, or has ingested a potentially toxic substance, get your pet to a vet right away.

Bearded Dragons are quite rare reptiles, whose astonishing biological charactaristic is their extremely long facial hair. This makes them unique among reptiles, not only due to the fact that they have hair, but also that many of them have very stylish goatees.

Bearded dragons are primarily desert dwellers. However, they do spend the hottest part of the day in relatively cool areas As with all desert creatures, too much heat may be just as dangerous as too little. During the day the temperature should range from 76 F (24 C) on the cool side to 86 F (30 C) on the warm side, with their basking area ranging from 90-100 F (32-37.7 C).

When threatened these lizards assume a defensive posture, opening their mouths and pushing their throat skin forward to make their 'beard'. They are usually bought at a few months of age, measuring only 15 - 20 cm (6 - 8 inches). They should be alert, but fairly tame (not too docile though as these lizards tend to become tamer and slower as they age).

They are active lizards, and like to climb around. Put some sturdy angled branches or twisty grapewood into their enclosure, and you'll probably see the dragon climbing and exploring. Bearded dragons are a diurnal basking species, and as such, need exposure to full spectrum light in order to properly synthesize vitamin D3 and for calcium absorption in the GI tract. Specifically they require light in the UVB. While their appearance is similar to iguanas, dragons tend to be more docile than iguanas and far less demanding.

Bearded Dragons are not like most reptiles you can buy at a pet store. They enjoy being handled, they eat greens along with crickets and you don't have to feed them mice for them to get proper nutrition. Bearded dragons are commonly available at pet stores, reptile expos and breeders' websites. Captive-bred specimens are usually recommended because they are much healthier and more acclimated to captivity than animals caught in the wild.

I can't get enough of my Bearded Dragon Cedric! Caring for your Bearded Dragon is easy when you know how. More care tips, articles and pictures on Bearded Dragon Care are available here.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mark_F_Hargreaves

Recognizing and Treating Lizard Health Issues

If you own a pet lizard, it is important for you to be aware of potential health problems that your pet may face. The reality is that lizards face different health issues than more common pets, such as cats and dogs. Therefore, in order to make certain your pet lives a long and healthy life, you need to know about the special health concerns associated with lizards as well as what you can do to help prevent these problems from occurring.

Recognizing Health Problems in Your Lizard

There are a number of signs and characteristics that indicate a health problem in a lizard. Some of these include:

• Change in skin color
• Dulling or darkening of the skin
• Lack of appetite
• Change in food preferences (particularly choosing those with a higher moisture content)
• Eating more than normal
• Less frequent urination or defecation
• Fecal matter that is harder, smaller or drier
• Lethargy
• Spending more time in the basking area or at the cooler end of the habitat
• Soaking in the water bowl more than usual
• Increased activity
• Excessive scratching, digging or head-banging
• Decreased or increased flicking of the tongue while handled
• Unusual level of aggressiveness
• Failure to shed its skin in one piece if it usually sheds in one piece
• Shedding takes longer than usual
• Sits with its mouth open for long periods of time
• Swelling in the jaw, tail, back or limbs
• Loss of strength
• Unexplainable shakiness or tremors
• Not climbing as often as usual
• Bruises, bumps or lumps
• Scabs or blisters

If your lizard develops any of these characteristics, you should check out your lizards environmental conditions in order to determine if there is a problem that needs correction.

Taking Steps to Improve Your Lizard's Health

If your lizard is experiencing health issues, your first course of action should always be to take it to a veterinarian in order to be treated. Unfortunately, many veterinarians are not properly trained in lizard care, which means you may have difficulty finding one who can properly treat your pet.

In general, there are two common problems that cause health issues to develop in a lizard: feeding issues or habitat problems. If you have had your lizard for some time and have thoroughly researched the proper diet for the type of lizard you have, feeding problems likely are not the cause of your pet's illness. Therefore, so long as you haven't made any dietary changes, you should make checking out your pet's habitat your first priority.

The most common habitat problems faced by lizards include temperature swings and changes in humidity levels. These changes may occur throughout the year as outside temperatures change, which may change the climate in the home. In the winter, for example, your home may be less humid due to the artificial heat you use to warm your home. Therefore, you may need to take steps to increase the humidity level inside your lizard's habitat.

By taking steps to improve your pet's habitat, you will likely help it to overcome its health issues. If problems continue, be certain to take it to see a veterinarian in order to get additional treatment.

CS Swarens is the CEO of Find a Pet Online. 800 998-7065

For additional information on dogs, cats, birds, horses, and exotic pets visit the internet's resource for exotic pets for sale

Research pet breeders at Find a Pet Online.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=CS_Swarens

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